Transalp Engine Strip (part 1)

Step-by-step with notes on the strip down of my Honda Transalp engine. Never a happy-event (usually because of the reasons why the rebuild was necessary)

After the crack in the RH crankcase, near the oil pressure switch became a failure, and that the attempted fix with Devcon F2 Aluminium Putty was exactly trustworthy, decided that it was time for the strip down of the engine, in prep for a weld to be used.

In preparation, I done a quick read of the Haynes manual and made a note of the correct order of doing things. Also, I’d found all the plastic trays I had ready to ensure the parts were laid out in the correct order.

In terms of specials tools required, the only thing I had to obtain was an M22/1.5p RH thread flywheel puller. I ordered a Sealey 10pc flywheel puller set, which includes this size, as I’ve other bikes and usually have to locate the right size puller. You may also want to get a tool to hold the flywheel when removing the primary drive bolt and the flywheel bolt; there is a way of doing it without (see below), but I’ve also order a cheap and handy tool

|ssl21909.jpg|Engine removed from the bike and on the bench ready for work.
.Removal from the bike is straightforward and with the use of a jack can be done on your own.|
|Remove the oil pipes|Carefully removed the oil pipes from both cylinders, before removing the cylinder head covers. They seem pretty fragile, so was careful|
|Cylinder Head Covers Removed|Cylinder head covers removed, fairly straightforward. I did both at the same time, then worked on the front cylinder for the following steps, before starting on the rear cylinder|
|Parts carefully laid out|Although the different parts are marked, like the cams, I carefully put the front and rear cylinder components in different containers. I did the front cylinder first before moving to the rear. |
|Removed the rotor cover|The inspection covers and the crankshaft rotor bolt cover are well mangled so had to remove the whole cover to turn the crank|
|Measuring camchain wear|Prior to removing the cam and camchain sprocket, needed to slacken the camchain tensioner. To check wear on the camchains, you need to measure the height of the large wedge on the top of the tensioner. According to the Haynes, if the wedge sits up higher than 20mm then there the camchains are worn, and this was the case on my engine.|
|Cylinder Head and Camshaft|Cylinder Head with Camshafts|
|Cylinder Head|Head with camshaft removed|
|Head and Barrels|Removing the head and barrels|
|Pistons|Removing pistons|
|Clutch Cover|Clutch cover removal|
|Clutch|Clutch|
|Loosening the clutch nut|Clutch removal|
|Clutch removed|After the clutch|
|Gear selector| |
|Gear selector plate removed|Gear selector|
|Gear Selector (another view)| |
|Removing the dowel| |
|Primary drive bolt|Primary Drive bolt/sprocket removal|
|Flywheel bolt| Flywheel / rotor bolt |
|Dead Beta Strap Wrench| |
|Flywheel bolt off| |
|Cleaning up the wound| The problem and reason for strip|

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