Starting work on the Husky

I’d got the bike running back in October, but it sounded like the main bearings were completely shot. Also, the carb was full of old and decaying petrol, which needed sorting out.

I’d got some parts from Charlie Preston including a brake cable, bearings, air filter etc. However, whilst over in Belgium went over to see Jef Bens and see what he could help me with. The RT was a bit unique and whilst the engine is standard, the air filter housing isn’t. Unlike the CR and WR’s, which have the circular air filter housing with a metal connector to the carb, there is a rubber connector for the RT. Hidden away in the shelves, Jef found one, as well as a set of shoes for the full-width hubs for the RT.

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Anyway workshop time involved getting the engine out of the frame and having a look at the piston, bore and starting the complete engine strip. Removed the Power Dynamo set up and then took out the engine mounting bolts. The lower rear bolt was a pain, but all of them gave the impression of having not been removed for a while.

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With the engine on the bench, removed the four head / cylinder nuts, to find a pretty good fitting piston, with only limited wear marks on the skirt. Little end bearing and gudgeon pin also looked and felt okay. Drained the oil and then left it to move on to other jobs.

One of the main things was to look at is the petrol tank. I’d got a replacement tap., but the tank itself was internally pretty rusty. Looking at the interweb, I tried the electrolysis method which seemed to be pretty good.

Further stripping of the engine was okay, with the clutch side being fairly straightforward. One of the bike challenges was removed the front sprocket. Like similar vintage Montesa’s the sprocket sits on a taper shaft, rather than splines [Husqvarna changed to splits in 74 I think ]] and if it slips, it tends to weld itself to the shaft. I tried removing it before going to the [Telford show but failed. A repeat attempt with the assistance of Mark (and his Montesa specifically built pullers) also failed.

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The engine then did a road trip with up to my parents. Only with the use of oxy-propane heat, a long chisel and a very large hammer did the sprocket finally come detached. Speaking with Charlie Preston it seems that in many cases, an angle grinder is commonly the only solution.

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I’d also managed to find the original part, crankcase splitter (which is shown in the Clymer manual), which actually works a treat. One of the main bearings was completely bollocksed so hence the noise when running. The big-end bearing seemed okay, with no travel etc, but you never know and this might need replacing in the future.

Cases were easy to split and with the procurement of a oxy-propane welding kit from Welders Warehouse getting the bearings in, was straightforward.

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More on the rebuild and further work on the Husky to come.

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