The Husqvarna 360 Automatic was complete but looking a bit tatty in particular the rusty frame and swingarm. Never a better way to go through the bike than with a complete strip down.
The plastics have obviously been in the sun and though had lost some sheen they are in good condition and very much race useable. One of the rubber mounts to the airbox was perished and broke off. Exhaust was in good shape, but a bit heavy, probably due to the US requirement spark arrestor.
Drained the oil before removing the engine, but kept the oil in a clean jug as hadn’t quire decided what oil I’d need. (more on this later). One really knackered bolt holding the sprocket cover but wih subtle use of the impact driver managed to get it out.
Spent the last 90 minutes of work on day 1 doing the messy job of prepping the frame and parts for painting. Shot blasting takes time and I’ve a cabinet for the small pieces, but usually get good results on a frame with a small thumb sander. It takes a while and cleaning off the rust and marks doesn’t usually take too long. Then rub down the frame with some meths to remove any grease.
Brake plates and shoes were fairly worn but cleaned up okay. The tyres looked period from the 70’s (Baumn MX tyres) and were perished but given the way the inner tubes disintegrated on site, amazing they still held air. Didn’t have to get the angle grinder to them, but changing them to some new rubber (Michelin S12 130/90 18 on the rear and Metzeler on the front) was the longest part of the job. Cold mornings don’t help as ,means stiff tyres and need to get the heater on them.
Paul had spayed a frame with Silver Wheel paint and though the original frame is a more bronze / silver in colour I went for something effective and cheap. Not powder coated a frame since the SWM Jumbo restoration many moons ago, as always concerned about the way it chips. If I was doing a restoration for the front room on something then might consider it. The recent 1970 Husky acquisition has been powder coated and its true it does provide a professional looking depth to the paint, so maybe something to consider for the future.
Paint when on during the morning whilst working I could nip out and spend 10-15 minutes applying a coat of paint and in the end put 4 layers on the frame, swingarm and other components.
I’d acquired some Fox rear shocks for £80 at Telford and look nice and period, even though they won’t be as good as modern ones, like the YSS items, but expedience over expense on this project. They look good on the bike, who’s age is right at the start of the extremely laid down shock period.
Used the glue gun on the carb to aribox rubber for now, but it ideally needs a replacement which I’ll seek out from Jef Bens, along with some new break pads. I changed the bars to a spare set of Desert Bend Renthals that I’d save from another bike I’d sold somewhere.
The electronic ignition was functioning and I limited myself to checking the cables. I do need to rig up the kill switch as this wasn’t working. Given you cannot stall the bike in gear something to stop the engine running will be pretty handy.
It has a loose sounding piston and isn’t far away from a rebore and next size piston I would think, but again expedience pays and there is compression and it runs and starts. So for now will stay as it is, though may take the head off and measure the cylinder bore and piston to see where we are in the evolutionary cycle of the engine.
Need some grips and a better throttle and she’ll be ready to go. Currently targeting the Narberth Hare and Hounds on 4/April, as the bike has an enduro tank will be excellent if it is wet and muddy.
Replacement parts list:
– carb inlet rubber
– brake shoes, front and rear 25mm pads
– fork seals
– front sprocket, 11 tooth, serviceable but replacement not far away.
– clutch cable; is okay but the adjuster on the bar lever is broken
– new tyres (Michelin S12 130/90 18 rear, Metzeler 90/90 21 front